Maude showed up at our door that Sunday to take us to her
home, her brother beside her on a bicycle, bearing a bunch of green bananas and
a bright blue basin full of jackfruit and avocados. She was there to bring us
to her home and show us her new business, an apiary she started two years ago.
We walked along the road towards her village, Kris carrying
the empty basin she had brought us food in. We passed by two women digging in
the fields, just back from church in their best kitenge. Maude went to greet
them and came back with the basin, now full of Ugandan sweet potatoes, balanced
on her head. Laughing at Kris’s offer to keep carrying the basin, his ability
to carry it while full of potatoes clearly hilarious, Maude led us onward,
branching at a dirt path leading deeper into the hills. While we walked, Maude
asked us what Americans know about Uganda, and I struggled to find a way to
tell her that the only things most Americans associate with Uganda are Idi Amin,
AIDS, and the nickname of the Pearl of Africa…if that.
As we paused on top of one of the lush green hills, a small
girl approached us. Maude explained that Shivan was actually her niece, but Maude
has been taking care of her since her mother died. She handed over the
apparently too-heavy-for-Kris basin full of potatoes to the eight-year-old with
instructions to run ahead and begin the preparation for lunch. As Shivan
balanced the basin on her head and nimbly moved ahead, Kris and I took a moment
to exchange a glance and a laugh at Ugandans’ constant low estimation of our
physical abilities.
We stopped one more time as Maude pointed out her village.
It is small, with perhaps a couple dozen homes scattered across the rolling
land and a one-building trading center where the villagers can buy soap and
other necessities. As we climbed the last hill to Maude’s house, we paused at
the top and she pointed out the lines of the property her family has held for
generations, spreading out over banana plantations and sprawling fields.
We entered Maude’s compound, a cleanly swept dirt area consisting
of three different buildings. The first contains a sitting room and several
bedrooms, while the second contains a storage room and more bedrooms for the
variety of children that live there, beds piled high with foam mattresses and
the ubiquitous Ugandan blankets. The last is a kitchen separated into a cooking
area and an eating area with a dirt floor covered in grass. Maude pointed out
the nesting chickens in the corners of the kitchen; this is where they lay
their eggs when they are ready. She then brought us around the corner and
showed us the neighboring mud and wood constructions housing hundreds of goats
and chickens.
After the tour, Maude introduced us to her aging mother,
various nieces and nephews, and her grandnephew. Kris and I settled into two
wooden chairs brought outside for us, playing peek-a-boo with the grandnephew. We
were presented with about a dozen bananas and told that we were expected to
finish them while Maude bustled around, preparing for lunch, slaughtering a
chicken, shooing the dog out of the kitchen, and instructing her nieces. Once
she was satisfied that the meal she had begun over the open wood fires in her
kitchen could be continued by her family without her direct supervision, she
took us to see her apiary.
Maude began her apiary as an income-generating activity two
years ago with only the help of a local boy whom she is able to pay, as she
says, “not nearly enough.” With almost no knowledge of beekeeping, she managed
to produce almost 100 liters of honey in her first year using traditional
methods such as hand-held smokers and hive baskets she wove herself. She admitted
to us that she is still learning as she goes; her first year, she threw away
all of the empty comb, having no idea she could sell it at a profit to candle
makers. This year, she is expanding her twenty hives to fifty and building more
modern, “but still not very modern”, frame hives made of timber, nails, and
screening.
As we inspected the woven hives plastered in clay and
covered with aluminum sheeting, it began to rain. Maude brought us back to the
kitchen to check on lunch and we were promptly ousted by her mother, who was
outraged at the idea of making visitors eat in the kitchen. Maude showed us to
the sitting room and Shivan brought the three of us our lunch of matooke,
boiled sweet potatoes, and the freshly-slaughtered chicken with a Ugandan
sauce. When we finished, we relaxed with some homemade lemongrass tea and, of
course, honey, listening to the sound of the rain beating down on the tin roof.
Maude excused herself for a moment and returned with a pile
of yellowed photographs wrapped in a fading campaign poster. She carefully
spread them out on her lap and began to tell us about her life.
Maude was born the youngest of ten children. Her parents
were farmers, as their parents before them and their parents before them. As
the youngest, however, Maude had more opportunity as her older siblings grew up
and also began to earn money. She graduated secondary school and went to
business school in Kampala ,
the capital city. Her life early on, as she put it while showing us a picture
of her in a Banyankore-style gown, was easy. “I could have chicken and fish
whenever I wanted!” she remarked, laughing and patting her now much-smaller
stomach.
She stayed in Kampala
for 19 years, working various office jobs. However, during her time there,
tragedy began to strike her family. Maude explained that her father had been a
polygamist who died during her time in Kampala ,
leaving behind three different families in as many villages. She then pulled
out a photograph of a solemn-looking man, her brother, explaining that he had
been killed during a robbery. Two more of her siblings, a carpenter relaxing
casually on a newly-made cabinet, his leg thrown over the side, and a beautiful
woman laughing happily atop a truck, passed away in the following years. At
that time in her life, Maude began to receive phone calls from her surviving
brothers and sisters, exhorting her to return to the farm to take care of the
plantation and their mother, only in her fifties but crippled by diabetes.
Maude told us that she resisted at first – give up her office life in the
capital she had worked so long for to move back to the village?
Maude then pulled out a picture of her and one of her
sisters sitting on a hospital bed. Between them was a woman, leaning forward
towards the camera, clearly suffering but surrounded by love. Maude told us
that was her first sister to die of AIDS. Years later, AIDS took another,
leaving her family of ten children with only five. The sisters left behind
children of their own which their mother took in. However, their mother was
having trouble supporting the orphans, and Maude finally decided to give up her
life in Kampala
and return home to the village.
Maude took charge of the farm, raising the hundreds of
chickens and goats and several dairy cattle along with taking care of the
banana plantation. Still unwed, which is unheard of here in Uganda, she is
looking after the children her siblings left behind as if they were her own,
paying for their school fees and proudly boasting to us about the ones first in
their classes. Her mother is relieved to have her home, but, now in her
sixties, is losing her battle with diabetes and has sunk into a depression
after the decimation of half the family. Maude is ever-optimistic, however, and plans on continuing to expand
the apiary and using the income to relieve some of the hardships poverty has forced upon her family. She is confident that her lack of beekeeping experience will not hold her back; she will leverage the business education she gained in Kampala along with the knowledge and
traditions that she has learned in the village to make it work.
“I have suffered,” Maude told us, “but I am bold.”
A sample batch Maude brought out for us.
She wraps the netting around a pot to allow the honey to drain out of the combs.You can also see the smoker she uses on the bees.
Giving us a taste of honeycomb! Apparently you are not supposed to swallow the comb itself...whoops.
Maude's hopeful expression was rewarded after Kris declared it the best honey he's ever tasted!
One of the traditional hives that Maude made herself, woven from papyrus reeds and covered in mud. The aluminum siding is used the cover the hive during rain and keep it warm.
This hive has been plastered with mud to close it in preparation for the bee's honey production.
The more traditional frame hives Maude has started to build.
Bees starting their hive!
She drills holes in the back to allow the bees to fly in and out.
Matching hats!
All of the food that Maude left us with, including a long piece of sugarcane. Which you are also not supposed to swallow.
As we were leaving, Maude was pouring her last gift for us; a jar of her very own honey. As she presented it to us, letting the light filter through the now-golden jar, she proudly said, “One day, you will see this on a supermarket shelf in Kampala .” Then she slipped back into her mismatched, mud-covered sandals, ducked under the dripping clothes hanging out to dry, and took the bag of sweet potatoes from my hands to guide us home, her mother’s chiding voice floating in the air behind her, reminding her to always carry a guest’s things.
When we focus on ourselves, our world contracts as our
problems and preoccupations loom large. But when we focus on others, our world
expands. Our own problems drift to the periphery of the mind and so seem
smaller, and we increase our capacity for connection – or compassionate action.
-Daniel Goleman
